Art Culinaire back issues from December 2008:
The Geneva-based company Firmenich is the largest, privately owned flavor and fragrance enterprise in the world. Its flavors have influenced the culinary world for more than 60 years, appearing in everything from supermarket freezer-aisle staples to the dishes of the world's most celebrated chefs.(Firmenich)(Interview)
Dec 22, 2008 ... What is your role at Firmenich? I am a Senior TechnoChef[R] for the Savory Division of Flavors. My job as a chef at Firmenich is to create the go d standard for products that would be used out in the food industry. Do you have experience working in the restaurant ...
Pepper: humanity has been smitten with pepper for nearly three thousand years, and our yearning for it has enticed us into the furthest reaches of the world.(Back to Basics)
Dec 22, 2008; ... Our love of pepper is a universal one. Humanity devours as much pepper as all other spices combined, and with the exception of salt, it is the most consumed spice in the world. It has the power to arouse the appetite with its seductive aroma. We salivate in anticipation of its expected ...
How to weather the storm.(executive chef Ben Pollinger and managing the kitchen of Oceana)
Dec 22, 2008; ... Living in the shadow of something can be an intimidating experience, but for Ben Pollinger, Executive Chef of New York City's Oceana, growing up in the shadow of one of the world's most preeminent culinary destinations was fortuitous. "I'm from Rutherford, New Jersey. I still live in New ...
Chilled corn soup with smoked pepper cured trout.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the smoked pepper cured trout: 4 ounces salt 2 ounces granulated sugar 1 12-ounce trout fillet, skin-on, pin bones intact 1 ounce black peppercorns, cold smoked over hardwood 45 minutes, then coarsely ground For the chilled corn soup: kernels from 4 ears of ...
Tamarind-glazed sablefish with toasted pepper, cauliflower & carrots.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the tamarind glaze: 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1/2 shallol, peeled and finely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped 4 ounces tamarind paste 1/2 ounces jaggery, melted 1/2 piece long pepper 1/2 teaspoon Telicherry peppercorns, toasled and finely ...
Sea Robin with eggplant in long pepper-yogurt broth.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the vegetables: 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/2 teaspoon red mustard seeds 1/2 shallot, peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1/2 ounce peeled and finely chopped ginger 1/2 green New Mexican chili, seeded, ribs removed and sliced 3 ...
Poached swordfish in a Gewurztraminer-cubeb pepper broth.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the Gewurztraminer-cubeb pepper base: 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 shallot, peeled and sliced 1/2 ounce peeled and finely chopped ginger 1/4 green New Mexican chili, chopped 1/4 stalk lemongrass, smashed and chopped 6 ounces chopped fresh pineapple 1 sprig ...
Rhubarb semolina tart with black pepper meringue.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the semolina custard: 1 1/3 cups whole milk 1/3 cup heavy cream 2 1/2 ounces granulated sugar 1/3 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise 3 eggs 2 1/2 ounces semolina Pinch salt For the rhubarb compote: 12 ounces rhubarb, chopped into 1/4-inch pieces ...
Milk chocolate long pepper cake with cinnamon cream and hazelnut ice.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the milk chocolate dacquoise: 2 egg whites 3 ounces granulated sugar 2 1/4 ounces almond flour 1 3/4 ounces milk chocolate Powdered sugar, as needed Pinch salt For the long pepper ganache: 1/2 cup whole milk 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 1/3 pieces long ...
The dabbawala.(the Indian food delivery service)
Dec 22, 2008 ... Every work-day throughout the regions surrounding the sprawling metropolis of Mumbai, India, some 200,000 wives, mothers and grandmothers prepare warm lunches for their husbands, sons and grandsons who are toiling in the office buildings of the city. Back at home, the women place such ...
The food of love.(chef Peter Beck and indian cuisine)
Dec 22, 2008; ... Peter Beck, the Executive Chef of Manhattan's Tamarind, began cooking at a very early age. "My parents were basically working, so most of the time I used to cook at home, and that's how I developed my cooking skills. I wanted to help my mother when she came home from the office so I would ...
Bhindi do plaza.(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the bhindi do plaza: 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 onions, peeled and finely chopped 1/2 ounce peeled ginger, pounded into paste 3 cloves garlic, peeled and pounded into paste 1 pound okra, cut into 1/2-inch pieces 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon turmeric ...
Chicken kolapuri.(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the chicken kolapuri: 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus additional, as needed 2 small onions, peeled and finely chopped 1/2 ounce peeled ginger, pounded into paste 3 cloves garlic, peeled and pounded into paste 1 1/2 teaspoons coriander seeds, toasted and finely ...
Hing dhania aloo with poori.(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the hing dhania aloo: 1/4 cup vegetable oil 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed 1 teaspoon asafetida 2 onions, peeled and finely chopped 1 ounce peeled and finely chopped ginger 6 green chilies, stems and seeds removed, finely chopped 1 pound potatoes, ...
Living the good life.(chef Vikram Sunderam of Rasika on her practice and indian cuisine)
Dec 22, 2008; ... Vikram Sunderam, Executive Chef of the Washington, D.C.-based restaurant, Rasika, should have no problem cooking for the occasional politician who stops in to dine at what has been hailed as the best Indian restaurant in the city. When Sunderam was the head of the kitchen at London's ...
Tawa baigan.(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the eggplant. 1/4 cup olive oil 6 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 Holland Eggplants, sliced into 1/4-inch discs Salt to taste For the potatoes: 1 tablespoon canola oil 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds 1/2 small red onion, ...
Broccoli poriyal.(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the broccoli poriyal: 1 tablespoon coconut oil 1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds 1/4 ounce bengal gram, rinsed and soaked in water overnight 1/4 ounce urad dal, rinsed and soaked in water overnight pinch asafoetida 1 sprig curry leaves 1/2 ounce peeled and ...
Carrot halwa with cinnamon sabayon.(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the carrot halwa: 2 pounds carrots, peeled and grated 2 cups whole milk 3 ounces granulated sugar 1 teaspoon cardamom powder 1 ounce raisins 1 ounce ghee 1 ounce cashew nuts Salt to taste For the cinnamon sabayon: 3 egg yolks 2 tablespoons ...
Chicken makhani.(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the chicken: 1/2 ounce peeled and coarsely chopped ginger 6 cloves garlic, peeled Water, as needed 8 ounces whole milk yogurt 1 teaspoon garam masala 1/8 cup mustard oil 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 4 10-ounce boneless, skinless chicken ...
Goa fish curry.(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the halibut. 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon turmeric 4 8-ounce halibut fillets Salt to taste For the curry sauce: 8 ounces grated coconut 1/2 ounce peeled and coarsely chopped ginger 6 cloves garlic, peeled 1 tablespoon ...
Lamb shank roganjosh.(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the lamb shank roganjosh: 1/2 ounce peeled and chopped ginger 6 cloves garlic, peeled Water, as needed 1 cup canola oil 4 green cardamom pods 4 cloves 1 cinnamon stick 2 fresh bay leaves 1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds 2 Spanish onions, peeled and thinly ...
Eggs: an abundance of riches.(Report)
Dec 22, 2008; ... The spark that lit humanity's love affair with eggs ignited long before there was written evidence to document it Eggs were so revered by some ancient cultures that its people were forbidden to consume them. For the Hebrews, Assyrians, Egyptians, Greeks, Romans and many others, the egg not ...
Food for thought.(chef Jose Andres and his spanish heritage on his cooking)
Dec 22, 2008; ... Jose Andres was born to cook. "As far back as I can remember, I have been fascinated by food and cooking. When I was little, my parents both cooked ... and I was fascinated. I could not wait to cook myself." It was serendipitous that a chef so passionate about food was born in a region ...
Rompope.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the walnut praline: 1 1/3 cups canola oil 7 ounces walnuts 5 1/4 ounces granulated sugar For the coconut shell: 8 ounces Boiron coconut puree* Liquid nitrogen, as needed For the rompope: Water, as needed 13 eggs, at room temperature 2.2 ounces ...
Corn bread.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the corn meringue: 1 1/3 cups corn-water (from canned corn) 1 ounce egg white powder 0.03 ounces Xanthum gum For the bacon cream: 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 3/4 ounces bacon, chopped 1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons heavy cream Salt to taste For the ...
Deconstructed tortilla espanola.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the onion jam: 1/3 cup Arbequina olive oil 2 medium onions, peeled and chopped Water, as needed Salt to taste For the potato espuma: 3 ounces potato, peeled and boiled in salted water 1/8 cup plus 1 teaspoon potato water, from potatoes 1/8 cup plus 1 ...
Parmesan eggs with migas.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the Parmesan water. 2 cups water 8 ounces Parmesan cheese, blended to powder in food processor For the Parmesan spherification liquid: 0.17 ounce glucose 1 1/4 cups Parmesan water, from above 1 ounce egg white powder 0.01 ounce xanthan gum For the algin ...
Passion as the primary ingredient.(chef Harold Dieterle on his job and his appearance at Top Chef)
Dec 22, 2008; ... It would seem obvious that a kid from Long Island who grew up eating his Italian-American mother's Sicilian food and whose first interest in cooking was inspired by "watching my grandma cook Sunday supper" would become a chef. And while it is the path that Perilla's Executive Chef and ...
Black truffle crusted peacock egg.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the shirred peacock egg: 1/2 ounce butter 4 sourdough slices, cut into 3-inch rounds 4 peacock eggs 1 1/2 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese 1/4 cup heavy cream 4 ounces black truffle slices 2 ounces truffle butter, melted Salt to taste For the white ...
Peekytoe crab roll with crispy egg nets.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the ginger vinaigrette: 2 tablespoons ginger juice 2 tablespoons blended oil 1 tablespoon fish sauce 1 tablespoon lime juice Salt to taste For the peekytoe crab roll: 1 pound peekytoe crab, picked 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped 1 tablespoon ...
Crispy braised pork belly with deep-fried duck egg.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the crispy braised pork belly: 1 Hampshire pork belly 4 ounces granulated sugar 1 tablespoon fennel seed 1 tablespoon coriander seed 8 ounces salt 1 gallon chicken stock For the vegetables: 1 tablespoon olive oil 4 ounces trumpet mushrooms 1 ...
Doorway into the future: Italian cuisine: a fine blend of modern techniques and traditional products.
Dec 22, 2008 ... When visiting Italy as an American, (1) you are immediately struck by the juxtaposition of the ancient and the modern in everyday life. Strolling through the center of Milan, you'll pass by the Duomo, undoubtedly with your head tilted upward in awe at the grand cathedral whose ...
The romance of gastronomy.(chefs Aimo and Nadia Moroni on running their restaurant Milan's il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia and their romantic relationship)
Dec 22, 2008; ... Sustaining a marriage for nearly five decades is an impressive accomplishment. Keeping a restaurant open for the same amount of time is nearly unheard of in the tumultuous culinary world. The fact that Aimo and Nadia Moroni, the Executive Chefs of Milan's il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia ...
Semolina spaghetti with scallions and chili pepper.(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the spaghetti: 1/8 cup olive oil 2 sprigs laurel 1 sprig thyme 1 sprig oregano 12 ounces finely chopped leeks 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped Vegetable stock, as needed I teaspoon ground chili pepper flakes 12 ounces semolina pasta, such as ...
Scampi with couscous and red onion compote.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the onion compote: 1 small red onion, peeled and finely chopped 1/2 tablespoon strawberry honey, or other bitter honey 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar 1/2 tablespoon olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste For the couscous: 1/2 cup vegetable ...
Crab stuffed zucchini blossoms with minted pea puree.(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the stuffing: 2 teaspoons olive oil 2 leeks, thinly sliced 1 small zucchini, halved and thinly sliced 1 1/2 pounds crabmeat, picked 1 sprig thyme 3 cardamom pods, finely ground Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste For the minted pea puree: ...
Eggplant and shrimp stuffed paccheri with squid sauce.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the shrimp stuffing: 2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil 4 ounces sourdough breadcrumbs 1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped thyme 1/2 teaspoon finely chopped rosemary 1/2 teaspoon finely chopped sage 1 Italian eggplant, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices 2 cloves garlic, ...
Veal with leeks and eggplant puree.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the marinade: 12 ounces veal rump 1 bottle Baladin Nora beer* 1 fresh bay leaf 1 sprig rosemary For the oil: 1/4 cup olive oil 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 sprig rosemary 1 sprig sage 1 teaspoon black peppercorns For the vegetables: 1 ...
Cinnamon risotto souffle with citrus ice cream.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the rice: 1 1/2 quarts whole milk 2 tablespoons butter 9 ounces arborio or carnaroll rice 2 sticks cinnamon 1 vanilla pod, seeds removed Pinch nutmeg Sea salt to taste For the citrus ice cream: 2 cups heavy cream 1/2 ounce glucose Zest of 1/2 ...
Zucchini blossom creme brulee with wild fennel ice cream pops.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the cookie: 2 ounces butter Pinch vanilla seeds 1 egg yolk 1 1/2 ounces almond flour 1 1/2 ounces sugar icing (2/3 confectioners' sugar to 1/3 water) 3 ounces cake flour Sea salt to taste For the creme brulee: 3 1/2 ounces cocoa butter 20 ...
Traditional avant-garde.(Massimo Bottura's innovative cuisine)
Dec 22, 2008; ... Conservative values and respect for tradition have been the cornerstones of life for generations in the affluent city of Modena in Italy's Emilia-Romagna region. Time moves slowly here, and change, if it happens at all, tiptoes through the ancient streets on feet so adept at silence that, ...
Magnum of foie gras.(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the foie gras: 14 ounces foie gras, nerves and veins removed 1/3 cup 30-year-old Calvados 1 stick cinnamon 2 teaspoons cloves For the nut coating: 1 1/2 tablespoons water 1 3/4 ounces granulated sugar 1/2 vanilla bean Zest of 1/2 orange 1 ounce ...
Parmigiano Reggiano five ways.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the sauce: 1/8 Cup plus 1 tablespoon chicken stock 1 3/4 ounces grated Parmigiano Reggiano, aged 30 months 2 tablespoons heavy cream For the cracker: 1 3/4 ounces grated Parmigiano Reggiano, aged 40 months 1/2 ounce butter 1 teaspoon cornstarch For the ...
Gragnano pasta shells with fassone ragu.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the fassone ragu: 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 fassone tall* 2 fassone cheeks* 1 bay leaf 6 sprigs thyme 1 ...
Scorpion fish with black squid ink chips.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the red shrimp sauce: 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 ounce finely chopped onion 1 ounce finely chopped carrot 1 ounce finely chopped celery 100 red shrimp heads, rinsed 1 sprig thyme 1/2 cup dry white wine 1 tomato, finely chopped Salt and freshly ground ...
Zuppa inglese.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the gelato: 2 cups whole milk 2 cups heavy cream 1 vanilla bean pod Zest of 1 lemon 3 1/2 ounces granulated sugar 8 egg yolks 1/2 ounce glucose For the chocolate creme brulee: 1 vanilla bean pod 2 cups heavy cream 3 1/2 ounces granulated ...
Meat six ways.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the meat: 9 ounces veal tail 1 1/2 ounces veal tongue 3 ounces pork cheek 7 ounces cow belly 7 ounces fassone calf head* 9 ounces cotechino** 2 onions, peeled and finely chopped 2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped 2 celery stalks, finely chopped ...
The provocative renegade.(Davide Scabin, executive chef of Combal)
Dec 22, 2008; ... A traditional Italian trattoria is not the first restaurant one would associate with Davide Scabin, Executive Chef of northern Italy's avant-garde restaurant, Combal.Zero. Throughout his nearly two-decade-long career, the chef has been called everything from "Provocative" to "renegade." ...
Cyber eggs.(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the cyber egg: 2 ounces Asetra caviar 4 egg yolks 4 pieces finely chopped shallot 8 drops vodka Pinch of freshly ground black pepper </Pre> For the cyber egg: Cut two 8-inch Z 8-inch squares of plastic film and lay flatly on a work surface. On one square, ...
Breaded Piedmontese fassone.(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the fassone: 2 ounces all-purpose flour 3 eggs 1 sprig thyme 5 cloves garlic, peeled 9 ounces crushed breadsticks 9 ounces breadcrumbs with dried chamomile and sage 4 7-ounce fassone filets, trimmed 14 ounces butter 1/2 cup olive oil 1 sprig ...
Eggplant with parsley and tomato confit.(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the eggplant. 4 Italian eggplants All-purpose flour, as needed 1 bunch parsley leaves, cut into fine chiffonade 3 tablespoons olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste For the tomato confit: 16 plum tomatoes, skin and seeds removed, halved ...
A career without Sacrifice.(Carlo Cracco's career as a chef)
Dec 22, 2008; ... At the young age of twenty, having just graduated from the hospitality management school of the Instituto Professionale Alberghiero in northern Italy, Carlo Cracco found himself working in Gualtiero Marchesi's restaurant kitchen. Cooking alongside Marchesi, a chef who is widely considered ...
Rosemary smoked pumpkin ravioli (serves 4).(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the pumpkin ravioli filling: 2 pounds cheese pumpkins, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus additional as needed 1 ounce amaretto cookies, crushed into small crumbs Sea salt as needed Salt to taste For the ravioli: 1 pound ...
Egg yolk tagliatelle with pickled vegetables and borage broth (serves 4).(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the egg yolk tagliatelle: 13 ounces borlotti beans, pureed 1 1/4 pounds smoked salt * 8 ounces granulated sugar 16 egg yolks For the borage broth: 6 ounces borage 1 green apple, seeded, cored and chopped 1 ounce lemon rind, pith removed 1 ounce ...
Crunchy sugar cannoli with chocolate cream and beer foam (serves 6).(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the cannoli shell: 10 1/2 ounces white fondant * 3 1/2 ounces isomalt * 3 1/2 ounces glucose * For the chocolate cream: 2 ounces granulated sugar 1 cup whole milk 4 sheets gelatin 14 ounces 40% cacao chocolate 7 egg yolks 2 1/4 cups heavy cream, ...
Service with a smile.(A1 Sorriso's management and its chef Lusia Valazza)
Dec 22, 2008; ... A traveler to Sorriso, Italy, discovers an idyllic village tucked into the Alpine mountain foothills an hour north of Milan. The word "soriso" doesn't translate into anything but the name of a town until a second "r" is added. When it is, the word "sorriso" magically transforms from the ...
Red mullet with hazelnut-peach compote and mustard mascarpone (serves 4).(Recipe)(Brief article)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the complete: 2 peaches, pitted and finely chopped 2 ounces blanched hazelnuts, finely chopped 1 sprig basil, finely chopped For the mustard mascarpone: 5 1/2 ounces mascarpone 2 teaspoons Amora Savora[R]* 1/4 cup heavy cream Salt to taste For ...
Suckling pig fagottini with white alba truffles and apples (serves 4).(Recipe)
Dec 22, 2008 ... <Pre> For the fagotini filling 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 suckling pig shoulders 1 cup dry white wine 1 onion, peeled and chopped 1 leek, rinsed and sliced 1 carrot, peeled and chopped 2 ribs celery, chopped 1 spring thyme 1 bay leaf 1 egg salt and ...
Artisanal moonshine.(Moonshine)
Dec 22, 2008; ... The stereotypical impression of a person who produces moonshine - a moonshiner - is that of a back-country mountain man with a hole in his hat and a gun strapped to his back tending to his illegal still under the cover of darkness. Perpetuated by the silent films and magazine melodramas of ...