Art Culinaire back issues from March 2009:
Serviceware.(Industry Spotlight)(interview with designers Alberto Alessi, Izabel Lam and Martin Kastner)(Interview)
Mar 22, 2009 ... A painter would be lost without his canvas in much the same way a chef would be helpless without serviceware. It is the common denominator uniting all restaurant kitchens as it serves to bridge the space between customer and chef. Modern serviceware reflects, and in many cases defines, the ...
The unbearable lightness of frying.(Back to Basics)(history and steps on how to cook tempura)
Mar 22, 2009 ... THE JAPANESE COOKING METHOD KNOWN AS "TEMPURA" complies with this culture's adherence to the practice of presenting simple, artfully plated food that is comprised of the freshest possible ingredients available. Although tempura is considered a Japanese culinary triumph, this ...
Step by slow deleberate step.(chef Chikara Sono)(Interview)
Mar 22, 2009 ... Chikara Sono, Executive Chef of New York's East Village restaurant Kyo Ya, did not arrive in America with the intention of becoming a chef. When he first came to New York from his native Sapporo, Japan, he was more interested in taking pictures than he was in cooking. "I first came to ...
Snow crab tempura (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the rice stuffing: 10 ounces cooked sushi rice 4 ounces tobiko flying fish roe * 2 sprigs mitsuba, blanched ** 2 ounces shimeji mushroom stems, blanched *** 2 ounces finely sliced scallion 1/2 cup white wine vinegar Salt to taste For the kani miso sauce: 4 ounces kani ...
Potato stuffed spring corn with salted cherry blossom tempura (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> Potato stuffed spring corn with salted cherry blossom tempura (serves 4) For the potato stuffing: 1 teaspoon shiratama powder * Water, as needed 10 ounces mashed Idaho potatoes 1/2 teaspoon katakura starch ** 1/2 ounce granulated sugar 1 ounce butter Salt to taste For ...
Smoked anago wrapped kenchin tempura (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the lily bulb petals: 1 cup simple syrup 2 drops red food coloring 1 lily bulb, petals separated For the tofu stuffing: 4 1/2 ounces momen tofu * 1 1/2 tablespoons soy milk 1 teaspoon mirin Dash soy sauce 1 carrot peeled, chopped and blanched 1 yellow squash, peeled, ...
Tempura medley (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the sea urchin tempura: 7 ounces murasaki sea urchin 1 egg yolk 1 cup dashi broth 6 ounces bafun sea urchin 1 large sea scallop, chopped into 8 pieces 1/2 ounce finely chopped nagaimo yam 4 sea urchin shells 1 gallon vegetable oil 8 ounces rice flour 1 pound pastry ...
Chestnut sweet; temura with red bean sauce (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the shiratama balls: 6 ounces shiratama powder Water, as needed 3 ounces green tea powder Simple syrup, as needed For the red bean sauce: 8 ounces cooked azuki red beans 1/2 gallon water 6 ounces korisato ** I ounce sanonto *** For the chestnut-sweet potato molds: ...
The mighty.(Arrows owners Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier; recipe for and history of peas)(Interview)
Mar 22, 2009 ... Peas contain an amino acid that produces in grain a highly nutritious protein it could not generate otherwise. During the era of Charlemagne, when farmers discovered the virtues of crop rotation, they reaped the benefits of this protein by one year planting grain and the next year planting ...
English pea soup with ham hock terrine (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the soup: 1 pound shelled English peas, blanched 2 1/2 cups chicken stock 1 1/2 cups heavy cream Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste For the shredded ham hock: 2 smoked ham hocks 1 small onion, peeled and thinly sliced 1 carrot, peeled and chopped 1 rib ...
Grilled diver sea scallops with pea morel raaout (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the foie gras: 2 pounds foie gras, cleaned and veins removed 2 pounds kosher salt For the pancetta: 8 ounces thinly sliced pancetta For the pea morel ragout: 1/2 ounce butter 1/8 cup chicken stock 4 ounces fresh morels, trimmed 4 ounces English peas, blanched 1/2 ...
Sweet pea dessert medley (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the sweet pea ice cream: 4 ounces peas, blanched 1 1/4 cups whole milk 1 cup heavy cream 6 ounces granulated sugar Pinch salt 5 egg yolks For the chocolate truffle bar: 3/4 cup heavy cream 8 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped 5 ounces cocoa powder For the lemon ...
The spicy life of a journey woman.(Ana Sortun, chef and owner of Oleana restaurant)(Interview)
Mar 22, 2009 ... "I've always had a thing for sourcing local ingredients. Good fresh food is the best ingredient that any chef could ask for." For Ana Sortun, Executive Chef and owner of the Cambridge, MA-based restaurant, Oleana, local is extremely personal. "I met my husband about five years ago. He was ...
Crab kadayif with lemon, pistachio and creamed pea tendrils (servers 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the crab filling: 1 pound crab meat, picked 8 ounces grated haloumi cheese 3 sprigs parsley, chopped 1/2 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 1/2 tablespoons mayonnaise Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste For the kadayif. 8 ounces kadayif 1/2 cup olive oil ...
Stuffed artichoke with pea paella and chorizo (serves 6).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the pea paella: 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 small onlon, peeled and finely chopped 1 red bell pepper, seeds and ribs removed, finely chopped 4 plum tomatoes, peeled and finely chopped 1 ounce garlic, peeled and finely chopped 8 ounces medium grain rice 1 quart chicken stock ...
Monkfish tagine with fereek, sugar snap peas and lemon confit (serves 6).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009; ... <Pre> For the monkfish: 6 5-ounce monkfish fillets, trimmed Salt to taste For the fereek: 12 ounces fereek, rinsed 1/2 gallon water 1 tablespoon olive oil 3 shallots, peeled and finely chopped 1 sprig mint, finely chopped Pinch saffron, bloomed in 1 tablespoon water Salt and ...
Spoon lamb and pea pilaf en croute.(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the spoon lamb: 1/8 cup vegetable all 4 forequarter lamb shanks 1 large carrot, peeled and chopped 1 onion, peeled and chopped 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1 tablespoon ground cumin 1 pint red wine 1/4 cup pomegranate molasses 2 ounces butter 1 tablespoon ...
Headmeat: an enticing taboo: a man is not paid for having a HEAD and hands, but for using them. Elbert Hubbard.
Mar 22, 2009 ... Use of headmeat varies considerably, depending upon regional taste, type of animal, and cultural perceptions. In many civilizations, the head is the symbolic essence of an animal and its consumption conveys profound meaning. In some nations, eating certain portions of the head, such as the ...
Meticulous simplicity: it's the complete opposite of toiling away and making endless adjustments to a recipe with the intent of achieving the best final product you can.(chef Gregory Pugin)(Interview)
Mar 22, 2009 ... Gregory Pugin, a native of Tarbes in the Southwest of France, decided at an early age to pursue the cooking life. Following in the tradition of his father, who is also a chef, Pugin took an apprenticeship at Jean-Marie Gautier's Hotel du Palais in Biarritz. Pugin has great ...
Pea soup with cockscombs, duck tongues and morels (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the pea soup: 1/2 ounce butter 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 shallot peeled and finely chopped 1 rib celery, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 8 black peppercorns 1 teaspoon coriander seeds I sprig each thyme, rosemary and mint 1 ...
Monkfish cheeks with piperade and piquillo sauce (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the piperade: 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 ounces finely chopped bacon 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 1/2 ounce tomato paste 8 ounces finely chopped tomatoes 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 sprig thyme 8 ounces julienned poblano peppers Salt and Espelette ...
Squid head stuffed peppers with potato blinis and squid ink sauce (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the stuffed peppers: 1/8 cup olive oil 8 ounces finely chopped squid head 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 2 ounces finely chopped chorizo 4 ounces finely chopped cooked pig's foot 2 ounces finely chopped seedless tomatoes 1 ...
Pork cheeks with caramelized apples.(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> Pork Cheeks with Caramelized Apples (Serves 4) For the pork cheeks: 1 pound pork cheeks, trimmed 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 smail onion, peeled and chopped 1/2 leek, chopped 1 carrot, peeled and chopped 1 1/2 ounces butter 1/2 ounce granulated sugar 1 cup apple cider ...
Cooking without a blindfold: we were very proud of what we did at Craigie Street, but it's also nice to come to a place like Craigie on main and take the blindfold off. i like being able to say 'yes' a lot of things we couldn't before.(Craigie on Main restaurant chef and owner Tony Maws)(Interview)
Mar 22, 2009 ... Tony Maws, Executive Chef and Owner of Cambridge's Craigie on Main, landed his first restaurant job in an unconventional way for a young teenager. "My first real job was when I was fifteen years old. I sent out resumes to restaurants on Martha's Vineyard. I started out by applying for a ...
Miso and red chili marinated Scottish salmon collar (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the marinade: 1 quart plus 1/3 cup water 4 ounces red New Mexican chilis 1 1/2 tablespoons Szechuan peppercorns, toasted and finely ground 10 Indonesian long peppercorns, toasted and finely ground 3 tablespoons coriander, toasted and ground 3 cinnamon sticks, toasted and ...
Pork jowl croutons with green tomato jam and ginger salad (serves 8).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009; ... <Pre> For the pork jowl croutons: 1 cup Armagnac 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 3 cloves Pinch freshly grated nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon caribe 3 juniper berries 1/2 teaspoon pink curing salt 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 ounce kosher salt For the green tomato jam: 2 ...
Cod cheeks with pickled peppers, long beans and chorizo sauce (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the cod cheeks: 8 ounces salt 1/2 gallon water 12 cod cheeks, skin intact, bones removed 1 cup olive oil For the long beans: 1/8 cup mirin 1 cup rice wine vinegar 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 tablespoon finely chopped onion 1/2 teaspoon finely chopped ...
Lam brains with merguez and sausage reduction (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the lamb jus: 1 pound lamb bones 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 4 ounces chopped carrots 4 ounces chopped shallots 6 ounces chopped fennel 2 cloves garlic, peeled 2 ounces white button mushrooms 1/2 cup white wine 1/2 cups chicken stock I salted anchovy, soaked in water ...
Roasted duck neck with serrano chips, matsutake and game bird consomme (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the duck neck mousse: 1/2 duck breast, skin removed 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 egg white Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste For the duck neck confit: 1 tablespoon salt, plus additional to taste 1 1/3 cups water 2 pounds 2 duck necks 1 sprig thyme 1 clove ...
Fromage da tete with matsutake mushrooms and quince puree (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the fromage de tete: 2 ounces kosher salt 1 1/2 ounces granulated sugar 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 1 tablespoon fennel seeds 1 teaspoon carribe 1 teaspoon allspice 5 cloves 3 bay leaves 1 teaspoon tinted curing mix 1 pig head 2 sprigs thyme 6 ounces pork fat ...
Serving the whole beast on a small plate: as a chef, you spend more time in restaurants than you do at home. I spend more time next to my sous chef than I do with my wife. you need to be getting along.(Toro's Executive Chef Jamie Bissonnette)(Interview)
Mar 22, 2009 ... For Jamie Bissonnette, Executive Chef of the Boston tapas restaurant Toro, cooking was not born of passion. It emerged out of desperation. "My mom was a terrible cook and my uncle and my older brother used to have gross-me-out-night on Tuesdays, which was usually some sort of bad goulash ....
Crispy sweetbread nuggets with blood orange aigre-doux (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the sweetbread nuggets: 3/4 gallon court bouillon 1 pound veal sweetbreads Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste For the blood orange aigre-doux: 1 cinnamon stick 1 pod black cardamom 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 cup honey I ounce peeled and chopped ginger 1 ...
Grilled lamb tongues with turnip puree and garlic almond foam (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the grilled lamb tongues: 4 lamb tongues 1/2 gallon chicken stock 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 8 sprigs thyme For the Macomber turnip puree: 4 ounces butter 6 shallots, peeled and chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced 1 teaspoon celery seeds 2 pounds ...
Veal brain with sunchoke puree, crones and grapefruit sauce (servers 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the veal brain: 3/4 gallon court bouillon 4 veal brains Salt to taste For the sunchoke puree: 1 pound sunchokes, rinsed and thinly sliced 1/8 cup olive oil 2 shallots, peeled and chopped 1 garlic clove, peeled and sliced 1 cup whole milk Salt and freshly ground black ...
The octopur: a mysterious delicacy: the most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious.(history of and tips on cooking octopuses)
Mar 22, 2009; ... Ancestors of the shy, reclusive octopuses have been lurking around in the deepest pockets of our oceans for more than 200 million years. Their solitary nature has not deterred humanity from finding a place for these enigmatic creatures in our collective consciousness. Depictions of the ...
The loose canon who had it right all along: he taught me how to cook from the heart, with a classical root but with an eye toward the needs of the moment. that's really who I believe I am.(Rick Moonen, Executive Chef and owner of Rick Moonen's RM Seafood)(Interview)
Mar 22, 2009 ... Rick Moonen has worked at some of the world's most illustrious restaurants. His resume shimmers with the light of such culinary stars as la Cote Basque and Le Cirque. But ask him who his mentor is and he doesn't name one of the famous chefs he has worked with over the decodes. "My mentor ...
Yakitori glazed octopus tips (serves 4).(Recipe)(Brief article)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the glaze: 1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice 1 1/2 tablespoons tamari soy sauce 1 tablespoon mirin 1/8 cup yuzu marmalade 1 1/2 tablespoons honey Salt to taste For the tips: 12 octopus tentacle tips, soaked In water 4 hours 1/2 gallon water Juice of 3 lemons 1 ...
Poached octopus with tomatoes, saffron rouille and mizuna pesto (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the octopus: 1 gallon water 1 small onion, peeled and chopped 2 ribs celery, chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced 4 sprigs thyme 4 sprigs parsley 5 lemons, sliced 8 octopus tentacles, trimmed to 6-inches Salt to taste For the potatoes: 1 pound Red Bliss ...
Crispy octopus with butternut squash and pomegranate seeds (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> Crispy Octopus For the octopus: 2 8-ounce octopus tentacles For the butternut squash: 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 ounce butter 4 ounces butternut squash skin and seeds removed, chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste For the bechamel: 1 ounce all-purpose flour ...
Roasted octopus and brioche with slow cooked egg and bearnaise foam (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the octopus: 1/8 cup olive oil 4 garlic cloves, peeled 4 6-ounce octopus tentacles 1 ounce butter 5 sprigs thyme Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste For the brioche with slow cooked egg: 4 eggs 41-inch-thick slices brioche 1 ounce butter Roasted Octopus ...
Octopus and tempura shiso taco with wasabi tobiko (serves 4).(Recipe)(Brief article)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the octopus filling: 4 ounces finely chopped, poached octopus head 2 teaspoons ponzu 1 teaspoon sriracha 1/2 teaspoon freshly slemon squeezed lemon juice 1/4 teaspoon chili oll 1/2teaspoon togaroshi 1 teaspoon togarashi 1/2 ounce finely chopped chives Salt and freshly ...
Speak for itself: I want the artistry of the dish to be in the month and not on the plate.(LETTING THE PRODUCT)(Sube's Executive Chef Seamus Mulen)(Interview)
Mar 22, 2009 ... Even though he dien't initiclly realize it, Seamus Mulen. Executive Chef of New York City's Sube, along with two Boquer'a locations, was born to cook. He grew up on organic aim in northeastern Vermont where 'he faim-to-table concept was not just a trendy thing lo write or a restaurant ...
Octopus bloody mary (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the pickling liquid: 1 cup white wine vinegar 1 quart water 8 ounces granulated sugar 1 ounce mustard seeds 1 ounce fennel seeds 1 ounce black peppercorns Tentacles from 1 medium 'pulpo de playa' octopus Salt to taste For the braised octopus: 1 fresh bay leaf 1 ...
Crispy octopus with fried lemons and pimento emulsion (serves 4).(Recipe)(Brief article)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the lemons: 1 pint water 1 pound granulated sugar 2 lemons, each cut into 8 portions and blanched twice For the pimento emulsion: 1 piquillo pepper, seeds and ribs removed 1 egg, poached 1 ounce smoked paprika 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar 1/2 cup olive oil Salt and ...
Octopus croquettes with pickled vegetables and horseradish aioli (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the pickled vegetables: 1 cup white wine vinegar 1 quart water 8 ounces granulated sugar 1 ounce mustard seeds 1 ounce fennel seeds 1 ounce black peppercorns 8 ounces butternut squash, peeled and cut into ribbons 8 ounces celery root peeled and cut into ribbons Salt to ...
Baby octopus with black rice and braised pork a la plancha (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the braised pork: 2 pounds Ossabaw Island pork shanks, bone intact * 1/8 cup canola oil 1 onion, peeled and chopped 1 carrot, peeled and chopped 1 rib celery, chopped 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and chopped 1 cup apple cider 1 pint pork stock Salt and freshly ...
Octopus and razor clams in a smoked-tomato broth (serves 4).(Recipe)(Brief article)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the shellfish: 1 cup Manzanilla sherry 8 little neck clams 4 beefsteak tomatoes, lightly smoked in a hot smoker and pureed 1 quart shellfish stock 8 razor clams 8 La Rafte fingerling potatoes, peeled, blanched and chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste To ...
Octopus terrine with shaved artichoke and celery vinaigrette (serves 4).(Recipe)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the braised octopus: 1 fresh bay leaf 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 1 teaspoon mustard seeds 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 onion, peeled and chopped 1 carrot, peeled and chopped 1 rib celery, chopped 8 cloves garlic, peeled 1 pint Cabernet Franc 1 ...
Be your harshest critic and push yourself as hard as you can.(THE REWARDS OF perseverance)(Bobo Executiv Chef Patrick Connolly)(Interview)
Mar 22, 2009 ... She son of a police officer and a special education teacher from St. Louis is not the most likely candidate for a culinary school, but Patrick Connolly, Executive Chief of New York City's Bobo was cooking long before he set his sights on a professional kitchen. My mom worked every night ...
Octopus and squid ink cookies (16 cookies).(Recipe)(Brief article)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the squid ink crackers 12 ounces all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 1/2 tablespoons curry powder 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 1 tablespoon salt 1 cup whole milk 1/8 cup squid ink For the smoked octopus mousse. 1 cup red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon red chili ...
Chilled octopus soup (serves 4).(Recipe)(Brief article)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the soup: 4 large tomatoes, chopped 1/4 cup champagne vinegar 1 teaspoon Maldon[R] salt Zest of 2 oranges, blanched three times Juice of 2 oranges 1 cup olive oil Salt to taste To serve: 1 large potato, peeled, chopped and blanched 12 haricot verts, blanched and ...
Octopus pancakes with beer syrup and maple mayonnaise (serves 4).(Recipe)(Brief article)
Mar 22, 2009 ... <Pre> For the pancakes: 12 ounces all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 3/4 cup whole milk 4 eggs 4 ounces shredded green cabbage 3 ounces shredded green cabbage 3 scallions, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon olive oil Octopus Pancakes For the beer syrup: 1 ...
The sweet tale of a bitter secret: burdens are the foundations of ease and bitter things the forefunners of pleasure".(history of the Hungarian alcoholic drink Unicum)
Mar 22, 2009 ... Das ist e in Unikum! The roots of the Hungarian nation bend and twist through history to an ancient past. Their spindly fingers bare the scors of repression and struggle as they place the contours of an epic saga born of foreign occupations, bitter compromises and uneasy ...