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Article: For 'happy' cheese, here's your man.(FEATURES)(HOMEFRONT)
- Article from:
- The Christian Science Monitor
- Article date:
- June 4, 2003
CopyrightCOPYRIGHT 2003 The Christian Science Publishing Society. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan. All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)
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Byline: Ashley Chapman Special to The Christian Science Monitor
NEW YORK -- Max McCalman points across the low-ceilinged room and lowers his voice as if a baby were sleeping. "It's like when a child is really upset and won't get in the bathtub," he says. "But then it gets in, warms up, and 30 minutes later that child comes out of the bath as an angel."
Mr. McCalman is not talking about a child, however. He is in the cheese cave of an upscale New York restaurant, talking about a chunk of Alsatian Munster soaking in a bowl of white wine and water.
McCalman works at Picholine, the Manhattan restaurant that opened the first temperature- and ...