Article: Watercress: clean green; pools of pure water produce peppery sprigs for summer dishes. (Food).(Sumida Farm in Oahu; watercress grower David Sumida)(includes recipes)

Wearing rubber boots, David Sumida stands ankle-deep in a pond of water carpeted with green. He waves foot-long leafy green stems in the air to make his point: "Watercress is the cleanest vegetable around. There's no mud--it grows on a bed of gravel in springwater. It takes one million gallons of water a day to grow 1 acre of watercress."

Here at Sumida Farm, a 10-acre oasis surrounded by four shopping malls in Oahu's Pearl Harbor basin, Sumida and his sister, Barbara, grow watercress, as the family has done since 1928. Threatened with development, the third generation stubbornly remains. "We're here because it's the best location to grow watercress in. Pure ...

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