Article: After the hype, Rocco's remains far from stardom; Nothing slick in its homey menu or service; Uncle Joe bests Mama Nicolina.(Dining/Restaurant Review)(American-Italian food)(Restaurant Review)

Byline: bob lape

Whaddya expect? the foosball game and plastic Madonna are pretty fair tip-offs. Unless it goes into reruns, The Restaurant, the television show that ended last night, is embarrassing history. Its goal to make household names of Rocco DiSpirito and Rocco's the restaurant is the only thing well-served in or by it.

Now, Rocco's is on its own, and-surprise!-the food is exactly what chef DiSpirito promised. For the most part, it is the homey American-Italian fare of his Queens childhood. From herbed extra virgin olive oil served with crusty country bread to begin, to the warm zeppoles in a brown paper bag as a finale, Rocco's brings freshness ...

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