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Boxed in.(Kaliningrad)

THIS SUMMER I DID SOMETHING that would have been unthinkable 15 years ago: I visited Kaliningrad, Russia's geographically isolated enclave on the Baltic Sea, a place of such strategic importance that in Soviet times no tourists were allowed in for any reason.

But there we were, nearly 300 journalists, scientists, politicians, and religious leaders, attending a shipboard symposium on the sea's environmental problems, pulling into the port of Baltisk, headquarters of Russia's Baltic Sea Fleet, in our modest ocean liner.

Bishops and oceanographers stood on the Lido Deck, taking snapshots of guided missile frigates and attack submarines as we docked at the Russian Navy's ...

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