Article: Peyote tourism draws controversial crowds to remote Indian town.

Byline: Ricardo Sandoval

REAL DE CATORCE, Mexico _ Hawk feathers tucked into the band of his dusty hat serve as proof that Rico is a serious shaman in training.

The feathers were earned, he said, after he completed religious rituals, in the presence of Huichol Indian teachers, on his path to a higher consciousness.

But Rico is not Huichol. Nor is he Mexican. His full name is Enrico Baldella Pettinari.

In 1994 the Italian expatriate came, he saw, and he got high.

Baldella discovered the way of the Huichol (WEE-chol) and their ambiguously legal, hallucinogenic drug peyote. He's lived here since, earning a living selling handmade ...

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