Article: ONCE-TARNISHED CHABLIS RESTORING ITS GOOD NAME.(Living)

Byline: Rod Smith For the Los Angeles Times

Forty years ago, anybody who drank wine could speak at least one word in French: Chablis. That was the synonym for white wine, whether it came from France, Chile or the San Joaquin Valley, in a bottle, jug or carafe. Grape variety? Don't ask. If you wanted white wine, you asked for Chablis.

Then came the vogue for varietals. Who wanted Chablis anymore? That, we thought, was just plonk meant for the sorry saps who didn't know any better.

Eventually, of course, we discovered that true Chablis was one of the world's greatest whites: elegant, bone-dry, with delicate fruit, a serious stoniness and crisp, ...

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