Article: Weekend: Travel - Chilling out in the home of ice cream; Italy is renowned for having some of the best cuisine in Europe. But Caroline Foulkes wasn't all that impressed -until she went to Lake Garda.(Features)

Byline: But Caroline Foulkes

When I was a kid, ice cream came two ways: pale and whipped, puffed up with air until it looked like the off-white waves of an old lady's bouffant, shampoo-and-set-hairdo, or in a yellow, pink and brown block, wrapped in cardboard.

If you were lucky you got 'sprinkles' (hundreds and thousands) or 'juice' (pinky-red, sticky-sweet, overpowering raspberry syrup that had never seen a raspberry) on the former. The latter always came au natural, and was considered to be enough of a treat in itself, especially since it bore the name ...

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