Article: Say cheese; Dairy owner makes mozzarella, ricotta the old-fashioned way.(BUSINESS)(WASHINGTON AT WORK)

Byline: Jeffrey Sparshott, THE WASHINGTON TIMES

Paul Stephan is up to the elbows in curds and whey.This is the old-fashioned way to make cheese," he says as he leans over a 50-gallon container and gently breaks up gelatinous clumps that soon will be mozzarella cheese.

Mr. Stephan is owner, cheese maker and one of two employees at the Blue Ridge Dairy in Lovettsville, Va. The company, about 12 miles outside Leesburg, makes mozzarella, ricotta and mascarpone cheeses that are sold in Whole Foods grocery stores and farmers' markets.

"We make a lot of cheese here. It's a tiny place, but we pump it out," Mr. Stephan, 36, says as he works on one of ...

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