Article: SHOP PLAY MAN WOMAN; EVERY CITY HAS A STREET, A STORE OR A WATERING HOLE WHERE ALL THE IN-THE-KNOW LOCALS GO TO SEE AND BE SEEN. HERE, THE INSIDE INFORMATION EVERY TRAVELER HAS TO HAVE TO STAY AHEAD OF THE TOURIST PACK.(Directory)

MADRID

Chueca is the liveliest place in Madrid. The gender-bending neighborhood skirting the Plaza Chueca is lusty and a little unsavory, a mix of low-chic and trendy. Calle Fuencarral is its hip shopping artery and Mercado de Fuencarral is its epicenter. A circular three-level warren of shops with names like Hell & Flowers and Tattoo Magic, the Mercado features a bevy of junior retailers, and downstairs, there's a bar and a hairdresser.

At Calle Santa Barbara 4, Sonia Ruiz, 31, runs THE DELI ROOM, the best store in Madrid for new-generation labels such as Miriam Ocariz, the Bilbao-based designer who just inked a deal with sportswear-heavy Armand Basi; ...

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