Article: Value, polished elegance kindle Le Perigord's 40th; Georges Briguet's hospitality holds steady in city's sparse French field.(Dining/Restaurant Review)

Byline: bob lape

The ranks of formal French restaurants may be thinning, but Georges Briguet still dresses for dinner. Donning one of his 17 tuxedoes, as he has each evening since April 1, 1964, M. Briguet serves as both the charming host and the raison d'etre of his beloved Le Perigord.

The well-dressed and -coifed clientele of the Sutton Place stalwart is welcomed almost as family. Most are regulars from down the block or across the ocean, and many are superachievers of business, medicine, government, diplomacy and the arts. The restaurant has seen more American presidents as patrons than it has had chefs in its 40-year run.

Patrons come for a ...

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