Article: Beyond the moussaka; Travel: Historian and TV presenter Bettany Hughes first went to Crete as a teenager, captivated by the island's romantic and sensual history. Last summer she went back with her family.

Byline: BETTANY HUGHES

AT SCHOOL, I had a classics teacher with a taste for the sensational.

One dismal November afternoon, we gathered in the old geography room for a slide show.

A voluptuous, half-naked woman burst on to the projection screen. This was the famous 'Snake Goddess' from Crete, a fierce and feisty creature, with a wasp waist and furious, kohl-lined eyes.

The Snake Goddess' pneumatic breasts stood bare and proud above her tight bodice and flouncy skirts. A giant snake coiled around her arms and neck. I couldn't take my eyes off her. This startling pinup was 3,500 years old. I resolved to find out more about the culture ...

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