Article: The Dolomites took my breath away.

Byline: SUE MACGREGOR

Sue MacGregor huffs and puffs her way across the mountains in one of Europe's last great hiking paradises

BY THE time I stepped through the doorway of the high and remote Rifugio Bolzano I could not have walked another step. They call it a refuge and it is well named. We had been clambering upwards for hours and the warmth of the valley below had turned into an icy wind - we were, after all, around 8,000ft up - and I was desperate for some hot soup and a glass of very cold beer.

In the lee of the big stone building a clump of pretty Alpine cows lolled nonchalantly in the thin sunshine. All the way up there had been ...

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