Article: Chop shop: Making hash of some really good stuff.

Byline: William Rice

There are, in the lexicon of food, some terms that are uncomplimentary in and of themselves, yet conjure up images that to me are appealing and even irresistible. "Wolf fish" (loup de mer) is one; "head cheese" is another. A third, the subject of my sermon today, is hash.

To make a "hash" of something is to botch or bungle it, to make a muddle of it. Surely some cooks do just that when they chop or mince leftover meat and vegetables and cook them together in butter or oil, hoping a crispy crust will form. But once a proper pan has been found (preferably a well-seasoned one made of cast iron) and the trick of adjusting heat has been ...

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