Article: The essence of fruit ... eau de vie. (California fruit wines; includes directory of vineyards)

Western fruit combines with European methods

POUR A GLASS OF eau de vie and savor its taste and aroma--an ineffable mix of one part pure ripe fruit and one part pure late summer in the countryside. "It's almost Proustian," says Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard. "Eau de vie is the essence of a fruit, and it triggers a lot of sensory memories that affect people strongly."

Graham of course is biased: he's one of the new crop of California and Oregon winemakers coupling traditional European eau de vie production methods with high-quality Washington pears, Oregon cherries, California apricots, and other fruit.

Traditionally served either at ...

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