Article: Old-World alchemy: Beguiling Belgium mixes art, chocolate, charm.(Knight Ridder Newspapers)

Byline: Anne Chalfant

BRUGES, Belgium _ In Europe, the skies have it.

Changes in the overhead palette vary with latitude, slant of sun, limestone adrift in the air _ a variety of alchemies. The golden beams in France that fascinated Monet, the energizing orange tint of the Roman skies _ look up and take in the ambience.

But nowhere in Europe has a winter sky stopped me in my tracks as it did in Belgium. Backlit with a glow, the gray sky calls up paintings by Dutch and Flemish painters whose winter scenes look not dismally cold at all, but like a friendly winter scene you want to step into.

Here's an image that stays in memory: I was in ...

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