Article: Age and artistry: Parmigiano-Reggiano is whey cool.

Byline: Laura Werlin

It could be called the little black dress of cheese. It goes anywhere and is always elegant. But like a black dress, it's sometimes hard to distinguish between the designer version and the knockoff. Is it true Parmigiano-Reggiano, or is it a wannabe?

Any cheese aficionado can tell you that no imitation Parmigiano can hold a candle to the genuine one. The green-can type? You've got to be kidding. The shredded variety labeled "Parmesan?" No way. Argentinian parmesan? Different altogether. Grana? Ditto.

This blurring of the line between traditional Parmigiano and its less-than-perfect cousins is the main reason the ...

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