Article: 1996's deluxe champagnes; Hot summer, cool harvest were key factors.(FOOD)(WINE)

Byline: Paul Lukacs, SPECIAL TO THE WASHINGTON TIMES

Madame Lily Bollinger, who ran the celebrated champagne house of that name from 1941 to 1977, once famously declared, "I drink champagne when I'm happy, and I drink it when I'm sad. ... Otherwise I never touch it - unless I'm thirsty."

I'm writing this a week before you're reading it, but it seems safe to say that about half of America will feel happy this morning and half sad. Everyone, though, likely will be thirsty at some point. So following Madame Bollinger's advice, champagne is the wine to drink today.

As another Frenchman, the Emperor Napoleon, put it: "In victory you deserve ...

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