Article: Warning: moose ahead; Northern Sweden offers the pleasures of snow and ice without the mountains and melted cheese.

Byline: ANDREW EAMES

THEY have a brutal method of gauging the thickness of the ice in northern Sweden. "You stick a chainsaw in it until water comes out," says Marco Odestrand, who runs a winter ice-driving school out on the Baltic Sea by the summer resort of Pite....

According to Marco, 10cm is enough to drive on - although you have to be careful not to go too fast because that might create a bow wave of water underneath the ice and cause it to fracture up ahead. I am happy to report that on the day I chose, with temperatures -20C, the ice was 40-50cm thick and so strong that 30-ton timber lorries were driving backwards and forwards to the archipelago ...

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