Article: Road to enchantment; Santa Fe, Taos, ancient wonders, and sublime food: take the ultimate drive around New Mexico.(SUNSET GRAND TOUR)

Always take the backroad. It's the smart traveler's truism everywhere, but nowhere will it work magic more reliably than in New Mexico. Set your course with all the certainty of a cottonwood leaf surfing an autumn breeze, pack a thick road atlas so you won't get irretrievably lost, and abandon the highway wherever an intriguing tributary offers itself. You'll stumble across an unadvertised volcano, a former ghost town, an Ancestral Puebloan ruin. Wander into a canyon with no trail and no name and let it rough you up a bit: New Mexico will never take your blood without giving something back.

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I'm taking a 10-day, 1,000-mile trip that ...

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