Article: THE PRODUCERS; Gasset's pampered ducks produce fabulous foie gras.(TASTE)(THE PRODUCERS)

Byline: Rick Nelson; Staff Writer

Caledonia, Minn. -- AN OCCASIONAL SERIES ON FOOD ARTISANS

`Hey guys, what's up?" said Christian Gasset in his heavily accented English, affectionately greeting a flock of snowy-white Muscovy ducks as they pecked through the mud on a drizzly winter afternoon. Gasset produces Au Bon Canard foie gras, and yes, he talks to his birds (all males; the female liver is too veiny for ideal foie gras). In fact, every thoughtful action Gasset takes - from the quiet way he speaks to the newly arrived newborns to their expeditious, low-trauma slaughter four months later - is focused on maximizing their comfort. The payoff is a superior-quality foie ...

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