Article: Jamie bites back; Jamie Oliver is simultaneously loved and loathed by the British public; he has been feted by Brad Pitt and Tony Blair and attacked as a corporate whore by Clarissa Dickson-Wright. But he's trying not to let the furore shake his new-found equilibrium, finds Lydia Slater.

Byline: LYDIA SLATER

It is a dark and chilly morning at Jamie Oliver's East End office. In a rumpled denim shirt, trademark silver chain at his neck, he is sitting at a long table, effortfully signing his way through a heap of Jamie's Dinners, his latest best-selling cookery book. 'I'm glad you didn't come yesterday,' he says, hoarsely, as signature after signature takes shape in his loopy handwriting. 'I felt well awful. The whole family's got colds.' A factotum trots in from Jamie's nearby Fifteen restaurant, bearing a huge platter of delicious Danish pastries and foaming cups of strong coffee. Jamie clutches desperately at his, pale blue eyes half shut in a ...

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