Article: Happier meals are here again.

THERE IT WAS FOR A THIRD TIME. ANXIOUS TAPPING beneath the table. An hour into what should have been a delightful, hosted luncheon with a favorite colleague at my side (in what sounded like steel-toe Allen Edmunds), he leaned in close and whispered, "I'm antsy. I just can't sit here anymore. Sorry Newman. I'm outta' here."

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

I should have been annoyed. I should have told him to pipe down and appreciate the branzino that was before us and share his thoughts about our wine pairing. I should have kicked him. Or maybe just a sharp glance would have done the trick. But I did none of these things. Instead, I said nothing. What was even ...

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