Article: A stroll through the cradle of the gods; Libby Purves finds ancient history on foot in Crete.

Byline: LIBBY PURVES

Crete is a violent landscape-mountain ridges rear from the sea, crags jut in the middle of towns, and long, deep savage gorges split the land as if some demon's furious fingernails had raked and clawed at it in spite, prefiguring a history of bitter wars.

But centuries pass, the diabolic gorges fill with flowers and birdsong and the wars abate. It is time for cautious, respectful walkers to attempt this wildness.

The island rises from the Mediterranean, long and spiny like a vast alligator, equidistant from Africa, Europe and Asia. As you walk, you understand how its position and ruggedness bred legends.

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