Article: Uncork a Vouvray.

Byline: Bill Daley

For your next big affair, make sure to invite Ms. Vouvray and her sisters to join you at the table.

Made from the chenin blanc grape, these white wines share a lively acidity and a certain fruitiness that make a good pairing with food. Yet each has a distinct identity, a unique flavor, style and aroma, to set it apart from its siblings.

Bill St. John, a wine educator at Sam's Wines & Spirits in Chicago, calls chenin blanc a "chameleon" grape because it can make wines whose residual sugars range from "stone-dry to teeth-singing sweet, even in one area in the same vintage."

This ability to change its profile is both ...

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