Article: A Flap Over Foie Gras; Chefs--and diners--love the fatty duck liver, but animal-rights activists are crying fowl at the birds' treatment.

Byline: Jerry Adler and Tara Weingarten

It was a delicacy among the Romans, and later the Jews, a substitute for the pig that helped their Christian neighbors survive the Middle Ages. To French food writer Charles Gerard, foie gras--the swollen liver of a deliberately overfed goose or duck--was "the supreme fruit of gastronomy." Seared and doused with a port-wine reduction, or baked with truffles into a terrine, it is the key to the restaurant industry's holy grail: the $20 appetizer. But to animal-rights activists, it's fur on a plate, an outrageous flaunting of humanity's dominion over other species, and at the same time a wedge issue that can usefully be ...

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