Article: Poles, queers, and the pope: visiting Poland with his acclaimed queer play I Am My Own Wife, playwright Doug Wright is caught up in homophobic history with the death of John Paul II.(FAR RIGHT)(attitudes towards gays in Krakow, Poland)(Campaign Against Homophobia, March for Tolerance)

When I arrive in Krakow, the city is still in mourning for the pope. His hunched, wrinkled face is in shop windows everywhere: He peers out from behind shoe displays, from apothecary shelves lined with bromides and analgesics, and from newsstands, where he dominates every magazine cover. It's impossible to escape his gaze.

But his is not the only poster in town. There's another one too, and it's a tad more provocative. On it, a nude male body hovers on a field of tiny red polka dots. Superimposed over it, a translucent pink dress. In black boldface type, the title of my play: I AM MY OWN WIFE.

It's true; in the wake of John Paul II's passing, I've come ...

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