Article: Long Island vintner takes special pride in his sparkling wines.

Byline: Mark Harrington

Jul. 18--It's another muggy morning in Peconic, but Eric Fry moves through the cool back rooms of Lenz Winery with the quick step and eager narrative of a man on a mission: It's time to cork the bubbly.

Just outside Lenz's back-lot processing room, more than 800 dew-laced green bottles have been chilling upside-down in a 28-degree cooler for the past three days, the end of a five-year journey that infused them with effervescence and a taste prescribed in a centuries-old process.

"The equipment is ridiculously expensive, and it's very time-consuming," says Fry, a winemaker since 1976 with a secret passion for sparkling ...

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