Article: Fruits of a forest farm.

MOCOCA IS A handsome town with elegant French colonial-style homes around a central square. It is the heart of the Mogiana region, once famous for its coffee plantations. Situated in the hill country pressed up against the frontier of Sao Paulo and Minas Gerais, it is a two-hour drive north of Campinas. Continue driving some ten miles east through green, rolling countryside and you arrive at the village of Igaraí, and the entrance to the large estate of Fazenda Fortaleza.

A narrow dirt road makes a winding way to the estate's main house. Sugarcane brushes up against the road on one side, while the other is rough grass pasture. Beyond rise hills covered in thick, ...

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