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NEW MEXICO; RUGGED AND REFINED; SANTA FE: One of America's oldest cities has an ongoing battle between its tourist veneer and its venerable core. In ways large and small, our correspondent finds the substance beneath the style.(TRAVEL)

Byline: Chris Welsch; Staff Writer

I woke up in an old adobe inn where at various times Ansel Adams, D.H. Lawrence and Edna St. Vincent Millay had slept. They'd probably stared at the same ceiling of ancient pine logs anchored in red mud and had no doubt been charmed too. From the historic pictures displayed at the Inn of the Turquoise Bear, not much had changed since the building was owned by Witter Bynner, friend of some of America's finest artists and writers. Then as now, beautiful wool rugs and eclectic art from all over the world adorned the walls. After breakfast, I walked down the Old Santa Fe Trail toward the plaza. New Mexico's beauty is not subtle. It hits you ...

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