Article: These Asian spices are lively secrets.

PRICKLY ASH ISN'T A NAME that invites culinary experimentation. But what if you called it Sichuan peppercorn or sansho? The dried berries of these two species of prickly ash (Zanthoxylum) add aromatic flavor and a zingy sensation to fish, meats, popcorn, and other foods.

You may have encountered the woody, spicy-sweet flavor of Sichuan peppercorns (Z. simulans) in dishes from their namesake region of China. Japanese favor the lemony taste of sansho (Z. piperitum), sometimes called Japanese pepper. Neither is hot like black pepper (nor are they related to it botanically). The berries are pleasantly tingly, rather than hot, on the tongue.

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