Article: Pastry chef famine eats at NY; Dessert makers leave frenetic, lower-paying restaurant jobs for sweeter spots.

Byline: Lisa Fickenscher

the bartlett pear strudel with Greek yogurt, thyme honey and Medjool dates at Compass restaurant is meant to be savored slowly.

Behind the kitchen doors at the popular American eatery, however, the pastry chef who conceived this indulgence is frantic. Vera Tong was hired this summer to create a new dessert menu at the Upper West Side restaurant. But she didn't know how difficult it would be to find assistants to help her prepare her sweet pleasures. She has been looking for a full-time pastry cook since June.

"I'm doing the bulk of the work, making everything from the sauces to the cake,'' says Ms. Tong.

She's ...

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