Article: BEEN THERE ... AND BACK AGAIN; Restaurants.

Byline: FAY MASCHLER

The Dorchester Grill 53 Park Lane, W1 (020 7629 8888), [pounds sterling]75

WITH little noticeable fanfare, The Dorchester relaunched its historic Grill Room (est 1931) at the beginning of this month. A new chef, Ollie Couillaud, formerly at La Trompette in Chiswick, has been engaged and the interior, which once resembled a Spanish livery hall, could now be summarised as Scottish baronial camp.

Murals of men in kilts and Highland battle dress - one bearing an uncanny resemblance to AA Gill - and women in tartan frocks whirl and skirl around the dining room.

Upholstery, previously claret-coloured, has been rendered a ...

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