Article: Mad about mozzarella.(Restaurant Review)

Byline: CHARLES CAMPION

IS MOZZARELLA the new sushi? Silvio Ursini certainly thinks so and has opened three restaurants called bik that specialise in spanking-fresh mozzarella. The first two were in Rome and Milan, but the third made its debut in Selfridges last week.

The menu features three genuine handmade buffalo milk mozzarellas: the Mozzarella di Bufala Campana that comes from Paestum is very milky and almost sweet; the Piana del Volturna has slightly more salt and tastes more savoury, while the smoked mozzarella is the firmest of the three with a delicate smokiness.

Supplies of mozzarella are flown in daily packed in water-filled "aquariums"; the cheeses are ...

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