Article: LAST BEST PLACES; A TRAVELER'S GUIDE; INTO THE CANYON; The Colorado River is dammed, the air tainted, the roads jammed. Yet the Grand Canyon remains an icon of the national landscape, and its wonders only begin at the rim.(TRAVEL)(SERIES: LAST BEST PLACES)

Byline: Chris Welsch; Staff Writer

With each step, my boots kicked up little clouds of yellow dust. The desert sun shone brightly, pushing my shadow along in front of me. The click-click-click of my friends' walking sticks marked the pace.

My eyes and ears wanted to stay on those details because when I looked up a great void opened before me, and it made me dizzy. From where the four of us walked, just below the rim of the Grand Canyon, it was nearly a mile down to the Colorado River, and 10 miles to the North Rim. In between, an abyss yawned, ringed by striated cliffs that seemed to vibrate with color.

When walking, it was a lot easier to look ...

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