Article: So Hungary; After a few grim decades, the lights are on in Budapest but nobody's home - they're all out in the city's spas, bars and gourmet restaurants. Alistair Duncan and his greediest friend tuck in.

Byline: ALISTAIR DUNCAN

Budapest was in the grip of winter when we arrived for the weekend. A thick carpet of snow had swathed the Hungarian capital and huge hunks of ice drifted down the Danube. It was bone-chillingly cold. But something strange was going on. Despite the grim weather, there was a palpable atmosphere of excitement. The cafes were abuzz, the locals looked glamorous in their winter gear and the imposing Art Nouveau buildings glittered in the crisp light.

Christened 'the Paris of Central Europe' a century ago, Budapest was renowned for its cafe culture, restaurants and architecture. It was a magnet for artists, intellectuals and European glitterati. ...

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