Article: High drama-and prices to match; Il Mulino sets its stage with formality; a menu that's full to bursting.(The Business of Life)(recipes and menus of Il Mulino )(Column)

Byline: ANNE MOORE

Going to Il Mulino New York? Be prepared to spend a lot of time and whole lot more money. Our three-hour weeknight dinner for two cost nearly $400.

No regrets: It was a memorable meal in a beautiful, historic setting.

In New York, Il Mulino is considered the city's best Italian restaurant, and has been for the past 20 years. Think white tablecloths, tuxedoed waiters, steakhouse atmosphere-only Italian. (New York Italian, that is; we'll explain later.) Il Mulino has also set up shop in Tokyo, Dallas, Las Vegas and Long Island, N.Y.

In Chicago, Il Mulino is housed in an 1874 Gold Coast mansion. (In recent years, the ...

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