Article: Service check: hot restaurants; How we fared at five busy new nightspots: Are they attentive, or too cool to care?(The Business of Life)(Evaluation of services at Il Mulino New York, Custom House, Carnivale, Del Toro and Quartino restaurants.)

Byline: VIRGINIA GERST

Tom Davis and his wife, Karen, awarded no stars to a recent dinner at a well-known Chicago restaurant.

"The server was not only non-attentive-he was negative,'' recalls Mr. Davis, president of T. A. Davis & Associates Inc., a Kenilworth-based executive search firm specializing in the hospitality industry.

Mr. Davis reports that the waiter ignored the couple throughout the evening, sighed noticeably when they asked him to repeat a special and had to be flagged down for the check. When he presented the bill, he dropped it on the table.

"It's a restaurant we would never go back to,'' Mr. Davis says. "You can get ...

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