Article: Central American dessert saga. (recipes)

Rich flan and crisp pastries have a touch of history

THESE DESSERTS TELL a tale of how recipes evolve as they move from country to country, from cook to cook. The story starts in Spain with two classics: caramel-coated flan and crisp fried bunuelos.

When the Spanish came to Central America, they brought these recipes. In Guatemala, a soft cheese was added to flan, giving it the delicate density of cheesecake. In Costa Rica, bunuelos acquired a local name: prestinos.

When two cooks from Central America moved to California, they modified their versions of these recipes. Marta Troche switched to cream cheese for her flan. Marlen Campain took a more daring ...

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