Article: Whatever happened to Hot Springs, hotbed of wickedness? Once a mobsters' playground,the Arkansas spa town now has an identity crisis,saysTom Mangold.

Byline: TOM MANGOLD

SO, I slept in Al Capone's bed, bathed in his bath and stood in his huge hotel suite, as once did he, staring down Central Avenue, Hot Springs - the Arkansas town which, with his help, became the last frontier where the old Wild West met the new urban cowboys of the East and the North.

Capone made the fourth floor of the huge Arlington Hotel in Hot Springs the home for his mob on vacation. He personally took the commanding suite, 443.

So did I for one night. Name drop? I haven't even started.

Hot Springs, a resort/bath spa one hour's drive from Little Rock, is Arkansas's strangest tourist attraction. It's the town ...

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