Article: Crossing into a once-forbidden land: A Toledoan, and native of Pakistan, writes of being allowed into India through one of the Subcontinent's historic gateways.

Byline: S. Amjad Hussain

Jun. 4--WAHGAH CROSSING, Along Indo-Pakistani Frontier in the Punjab - It was with much anticipation that I approach the only land crossing between India and Pakistan. This crossing is a short 15-mile drive east of Lahore, the cultural capital of Pakistan. Beyond the border crossing, the Indian city of Amritsar is another 15 miles.

The Pakistani customs and immigration offices are in small barracklike old structures not unlike the Colonial offices of a bygone era. The personnel match the facilities by their reserved and suspicious demeanor. I am spared lengthy questioning partly because of my American passport and because of a ...

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