Article: Crab Singapore via Seattle ... mighty mustard seed, clever cleaver, and more. (includes recipes, brief articles on cleavers and wine with crab)

Even though live tanks in supermarkets and fish markets keep Dungeness crab available year-round, this month's abundance and quality demand attention.

Right now, recently molted Dungeness crab are packed with a new growth of sweet meat, and the catch is in full swing from Alaska to central California. I find Dungeness, in its prime, to be a superb value, and I always cook it myself for some very good reasons: (1) Fresh-cooked crab tastes best. Commercially cooked crab is often overcooked and oversalted. (2) Time is crab's enemy. In hours the quality slides from superlative to acceptable, and after a day or so, right on down to smelly. (3) Crab is easy to cook and ...

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