Article: Cheese whiz; Lincoln resident keeps family's century-old tradition of handcrafted mozzarella alive.(Food)

Byline: MAT SCHAFFER

"Good mozzarella should taste mild with milk up front and butter in the back," explains Lourdes Fiore Smith. "The texture should be soft, have a slight chew to it and it should be creamy."

Fiore Smith knows her cheese. The Lincoln resident - a trained pastry chef and former Concept Project Manager for Panera Bread - recently began making her own mozzarella, which she sells at local farmers markets and to area chefs under the logo "Fiore di Nonno." It means "grandfather's flower," but it's more than a name - it's a legacy.

"In 1908, my great-grandfather Alphonso Fiore, a cheesemaker, left Italy to come to the United ...

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