Article: WINELINE A BIG SURPRISE FROM MADERA, CALIF.(U)

Byline: LARRY LIPSON

Michael Leven, a smart, dedicated winemaker, makes relatively small amounts of well-crafted wines in Madera, Calif., not previously well-known for other than fortified wines.

But Leven's grapes, are not from that hot valley area. They're from Monterey County and the Sierra foothills, and Madera happens to be halfway between those premium grape-growing regions.

At his recently built winery, he produces barely a few hundred cases of each artisanal wine, definitely not a formula for quick riches. But he's a patient man and will gradually increase production, hoping to begin making a profit within the next two years.

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