Article: The dichotomy that is Israel.

THE first time I visited Israel was shortly after the end of the Six-Day War. My host, proud of the victory, took me to the Golan Heights. I noticed, with admiration, the difference between the land that had once been Syrian and the land that continued to be Israeli: the former was brown, with no vegetation; the latter was green, replete with vegetation. But I also noticed something else: the land so lovingly cared for and so bitterly conquered was covered with garbage, casually dropped by Israeli tourists.

This is an example of the dichotomy between the dreams and the reality that is Israel which has also troubled me during my subsequent visits and assignments in ...

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