Article: BIG CHEESE.(Life - Food)

Byline: DOUG BLACKBURN STAFF WRITER

Some six hours before customers begin filling the wooden booths and tables for dinner at McGuire's, chef Andrew Plummer begins a ritual that few restaurants in the region ever attempt: He makes fresh mozzarella.

Working with imported Italian curd that he cuts into cubes before submersing it in a pot of near-boiling water, Plummer prepares balls of gleaming white mozzarella that he stores in ice water for that evening's meals. He likes to slice the soft cheese and combine it with local tomatoes or roasted red peppers for a salad that tastes as fresh as just-picked fruit.

Why does the Albany chef bother to make mozzarella from ...

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