Article: Full-bodied future; New York's wine industry is young but has legs.(Life - Food)

Byline: DOUG BLACKBURN Staff Writer

Thomas Henick-Kling swirls the reddish purple wine in his glass, then pushes his nose inside the rim, inhaling the aromas. He pulls his head up, a smile creasing his face.

Henick-Kling, head of the enology program at Cornell University, is in the brick-walled wine-making room in the Department of Food Science & Technology in Geneva. He has been nurturing the grapes the wine was made from for the past 19 years. He knows this particular wine better than many parents know their children.

It is a wine without a name, known only as NY70.0809.10.

Next month, that will change.

Henick-Kling will ...

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