Article: From the cradle to the grave: once home to two of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World--the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus and the mausoleum at Halicarnassos--southwestern Turkey can also lay claim to being the cradle of Western civilisation. Jeremy Seal takes a tour of one of the world's greatest open-air museums.(Travel narrative)

All along the road to Knydos, the olive groves went untended. Skyline windmills squatted beneath the skeletal remains of rotted sails. Abandoned chapels, weather-stripped of their frescoed plaster, had been customised as cow byres and country storerooms. In a scruffy village spiked by a single minaret, old women prayed behind their windows and hens pecked at the dust. Pungent clouds of tobacco smoke rose outside the cayevi (tea house), where the men flicked out playing cards or pushed worry beads between thumb and forefinger.

It was difficult to believe that amid this neglect--a characteristically Turkish mix of the picturesque and the poverty-stricken--there ...

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