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Article: Kitchen nightmare; The feared critic whose reviews can destroy a restaurant at the stroke of his pen, is less than impressed with Ramsay's [pounds sterling]3m New York baby.
- Article from:
- Daily Mail (London)
- Article date:
- February 1, 2007
CopyrightCOPYRIGHT 2007 Solo Syndication Limited. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan. All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)
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Byline: STEVEN HENRY
WITH a few choice words in a restaurant review he can supposedly condemn any new venture to failure.
Now it appears the fearsome Frank Bruni could have laid waste to Gordon Ramsay's New York adventure after a particularly scathing critique.
The New York Times writer battered the celebrity chef for relying on luxuries such as foie gras and truffles as much as his imagination.
Bruni reserved his most vitriolic putdowns for a 'cloying, gummy wedge of turbot' and a 'bizarre' starter combining langoustine tails with 'indelicate nuggets' of boneless chicken wing.
He claimed there was a 'dearth of inspiration' ...